Backpacking trek of the Inca Trail
26 April 05
Let´s start off with this lovely bit...
"I heard splashing on the boat
her bare feet
and sensed in our faces
the hungry dusk
my heart swaying between her
and the street, the road
I don´t know where I found the strength
to free myself from her eyes
to slip from her arms
she stayed, crying through rain and glass
clouded with grief and tears
she stayed, unable to cry
Wait! I will come
walking with you"
Sigh.
Errands day, and we are taking it easy. Laundry, packing our bags even lighter, preparation for our backpacking trek. I am so excited.
Ibar and I went to send a package home to the States. Such a make shift box. What I needed was a box about 12" x 12" x 4", what was provided was a box 24" x 12" x 18", nice and big so everything could flop around and break itself. I insisted on rebuilding a proper box and while it was being prepared (it took ages and ample amounts of tape), Ibar and I decided to amuse ourselves by drawing up a list of things to do...on my hand. The hand that holds all of the most important things to do...we were bored...
- bring passport on the Inca Trail Trek
- buy playing cards
- cash travelers checks
- buy stamps
- make incredibly complicated box
- send incredibly complicated box
...and because we wanted the instant gratification of checking off some of our items...
- bring our arms
- acquire University degree (I got to check this off twice!)
...simple amusements.
Dan´s not feeling especially well today - hopefully out of his system before tomorrow´s trek. We head off to a sports bar to get some lunch and to watch a footy match.
Afterwards the boys let me do some sketching for a while in the Plaza de Arms...boy am I a bit rusty!
We went to visit the Museo de Incas, which was filled with a huge collection of various relics. The building hosted a beautiful interior courtyard, with an intricate cobblestone paving design surrounded by an arcade. The columns of the building are stone carvings of mythical creatures and nude women.
Late we went in search of dinner and settled on an eclectic restaurant that served Thai food. The restaurant also had a huge pool table. My first Peruvian pool experience...I literally witnessed one of the balls coast slowly along the table, then turn abruptly at a 90 degree angle! Ibar and I play the longest game in the history of pool! No mad pool skills here.
After packing and repacking our back packs in the attempt to make them as light as possible we retire for the evening.
27 April 05
An early start to catch the bus that will take us off to begin our trek to Machu Picchu. You can no longer back pack the trail without a guide so we will be in a group of eight accompanied by three guides. The bus ride was about 3 1/2 hours. Once we arrived at our hiking start point, Kilometer 82, the Porters prepare us a huge meal for lunch and we begin our trek. Like everyone else, my pack has been slimmed down to about 12 kilos. but the additional weight was amazingly difficult to carry in these high elevations...I take continuous inventories of what else I might be able to get rid of but realize I need everything I have packed.
We hike until about 5:30 pm through breathtaking peaks and gorges. Flocks of parrots flying overhead, lizards darting through desert landscape and vegetation. It´s extremely hot and I am instantly soaked in sweat. One of the guides, Roger, is a Naturalist of sorts and, upon learning of my profession, proceeds to show me dozens of beautiful plants and to share their medicinal uses with me.
Beginning to see numerous Orchids and Bromeliads all over. Our tiny trail meanders through small villages selling soft drinks, snacks, and water to trekkers passing through. We are passed frequently by Peruvian women driving mules loaded up with supplies and large amounts of Chicha. These women must be in amazing shape.
When we arrived at the evening´s camp site, I immediately begin a long Yoga session for my absolutely knackered body. I fear how sore I will be tomorrow! Large camp dinner at 6:30pm followed by a long session of card playing for everyone, then off to bed, bunking with Dan....my bunk mate because I assured him that I don´t snore nor bite.
28 April 05
Nearly no sleep last night. Barking dingo of a beast dog lying just under the flap of our tent all night. No sleep but we weren´t eaten by a Puma...fair trade, I suppose! Up at five am to crowing roosters and Guides tapping on tents...apparently no one got any sleep, as it gets very cold in the evenings. Repacked our packs, ate a huge breakfast (toast and jam for me, pancakes and caramel, etc. for all else) and off we went for our second day of backpacking. I notice areas where bruises are sure to appear in a day or two, but feel very pleased that my muscles aren´t in tremendous pain and that I managed to not get too sun burnt.
Nearly our entire trek today was straight up hill, monster steps.Almost immediately my body and burning lungs felt the fatigue. Stunning views keep you going, I still can´t believe that I am here doing this, seems quite surreal... No one else would understand what I am feeling right now and I am finding myself so relieved that I am here with Dan and Ibar as they are there whenever I need to release the building steam that is my overwhelming happiness by way of huge hugs and kisses. I so appreciate being able to share this beauty and experience with others.
Todays trek was beyond difficult. Each moment of my hiking, my heart is beyond its target rate and pounding out of my chest, I am heaving for breath and my muscles tremble from absolute exhaustion...and here is the point where I toot my own horn because I am so fucking proud of myself...I am considered part of ´el groupo rapido´ which continues to make destinations before approximated times. Honestly I can´t believe that I am able to keep up with these gents.
The altitude increases and at points I am so hungry and exhausted that I am not certain that I will be able to make it to the top of the peak. It is all straight up and in the odd chance that you get a spot where it is relatively flat you cherish that step or two of rest before once again commencing your accent.
While feeling this way, wanting to be left alone, my Naturalist friend begins to profess his adoration for me, ´I love you´ came out, along with another battering of compliments and questions about my love life in Spanish. Why don´t I have the words in Spanish for ´Fek off´yet?
One mention of how uncomfortable this guy was making me and Dan and Ibar very sweetly won´t leave my side. I really adore them both with their kindness and endlessly ridiculous humor!
The Porters...I was told today that they make 20 soles each for a 4 day trek. That is the equivalent of about $7.00. I have never seen the likes of this in my life. They are young and very old with leg muscles that are huge. Their makeshift packs must weigh at least 60-70 pounds and they are basically running through the Andean Mountains, sweat streaming, racing to break down camp after we leave, pass us in our climb, and set up camp before we arrive. I feel really guilty at how unbelievably overworked and underpaid they are. So, we feed them our supplies of chocolates and decide to tip them generously at the end of our trip. They put our efforts to shame.
We are all constantly drinking tea and water with coca leaves in it. Provides us with added energy and relieves the negative effects of the altitude on our bodies.
When about 100 yards from todays peak, the gents of ´El groupo rapido´ started cheering and clapping for me (they were ahead of me). As soon as I got to the peak, I collapsed using my bag as a bed, but Ibar insisted that I get up immediately to look at the opposite side of the mountain, which turned out to be an ocean of clouds floating in rainforest. Absolutely stunning and I literally squealed with pleasure at the sight of it!
I did another Yoga session at the peak as we waited for the remaining trekkers to arrive. Another perfectly spiritual spot for Yoga. I can´t believe I made this peak!
The rest of todays hike was almost all down hill, very tough on the knees, into the cloud forest, past a tremendous waterfall - washing two incredibly sweaty, dirty days off in the coldest water I have ever experienced - instant headache!
We all had a huge lunch, I am absolutely starving all of the time, so much exhortion. Then we laid our exhausted bodies down for a much needed rest...reading, writing, dozing in the warm sunshine, and we get up again a few hours later for more Coca and a huge snack, followed by a huge dinner two hours later. Its growing dark now and the cloud cover is swallowing up everything, the air is cool and moist and good. Lush green and bright flowers, rushing sounds of water and lovely exotic scents...and my heart might just explode with all of the happiness it is holding.
29 April 05
Five am start again, up before Mr. Sunshine himself. Awake to ´Good Morning, I´m your alarm clock´ greetings and offerings of tea from the Porters. We repack our bags and head up to join our group for breakfast. Everyone eats omelets, they have made a special one for me out of vegetables, grain, water and oil...Semolina, is what I think they are calling it. Its ´interesting´ - one of those all encompassing words! Interesting, fine, unique, special...fills the void any ways.
Afterwards we set off on another days trek, up hill start but not nearly as steep as yesterday - yet my body is certainly beginning to complain strongly. Mostly my calves and my big toe reminding me that I abused it a couple of months ago very badly by fracturing it in seven places.
Orchids everywhere once we begin our decent, and getting larger and larger, and more and more lovely. Thinking of Mum and how much she would love the Flora here. Views of snow capped mountains and high cloud forests. Cliff hugging trails winding their way up, down and around the mountain sides.
I learned today that yesterdays killer assent is colourfully tagged as Warmi Wañusca, a.k.a. Dead woman´s pass....I almost became a statistic!
During todays hike we passed a couple of small swampy lakes. Our guide tells me how the first one is a magical place and no one can camp there anymore because people have been awakened numerous times to their legs being tugged towards the lake. Apparently its inhabited by mermaids and mermen...I wanted to give the Mermen bit a try!
We hiked on further to a beautiful overlook where we all stopped to feed our endless hunger again. I am an absolute health nut but when one of our fellow travelers broke out the Oreo cookies, I was all over it! I´m constantly famished!
The ruins of Sayacmarca were amazing and I got another opportunity to do some sketching as our Guides are taking it a bit easier on us today. We hike on through fertile smelling forests, stop for lunch, then on through amazing cloud forests, dripping lush vegetation, Inca tunnels, winding trails and stunning overlooks. We stop to rest at Phuyupatamarca, ´Town above the clouds´, the site has a series of beautiful ceremonial baths and a spectacular view of further ruins.
I had a much appreciated period of an hour or two where I got to hike in solitude which was amazing. My own pace, my own silence, my own observations...mmm...heaven.
Went to Huiñay Huayna, which translates as ´forever young´and camped at a very large camp site at the utmost edge of a cliff. We went immediately for an icy spring fed shower and then beer with our group. Again a monstrous snack hour with tea, we are all absolutely exhausted and need to get up at four am tomorrow to begin our trek to the Sun Gate, an entrance to Machu Picchu, in time for sunrise.
Dinner was enormous and extravagant, piles of fried yucca, papas rellanos, pasta, rice, meats, veggies, loads of beer and wine with dessert.
Tried to stay up past nine pm to dance some Salsa with two of the guides but had to collapse into my sleeping bag with mental and physical exhaustion instead.
Dan woke up in the early (earlier than 4am) morning. Sick from something he ate. I feel bad as there is nothing I can do to help him, so I hold his hand.
30 April 05
Dan´s much better, we are up before the sun. The Porters must have been up for two additional hours as I have been listening to them pack and prepare for the remainder of their trek.
After a quick breakfast, we race for Intipunku, the Sun Gate, with headlamps in the darkness, which proves rather difficult on the damp stone steps. Unfortunately, there is no visibility due to the thick cloud layer so we move on to Machu Picchu and wait for the clouds to lift. Very mysterious glimpses of the breathtakingly beautiful site through eerie, ghost like clouds drifting in and out of the Andies.
The surrounding mountains...I have never in my life seen anything more beautiful! Daddy, you would have had your socks knocked off, wait until you see my photos!...I have already taken about 800 in the short time that I have been here, so start cooking up the popcorn!
After a tour of Machu Picchu, exhausted and staving as usual, the group made a plan to meet at an appointed hour for a final meal in Aguas Calientes, the terminis of our trek.
Dan, Ibar, and I pushed on to our final accent (which nearly killed me, might I add?) to Huayna Picchu. This is the extremely well photographed, steep mountain at the back of the ruins of Machu Picchu.
The hike was absolutely worth the final push as it offered an outstanding view of everything around, Andies, Machu Picchu, etc. as well as several exhilarating and heart racing places to climb in, on, and around. Incan stairs, caves, cliffs, topped off with a treacherous descent along a vertical series of rounded, wet stairs that had no more than a two inch tread in many places. I am thankful that I am not too fearful of heights. Even at this high peak there is a local man working the agricultural terraces, planting and tending to the gardens. Amazing!
Tremendous sense of accomplishment relished at the final push up and down Huayna Picchu and at just having survived the Inca Trail trek. I am currently feeling as strong as an Ox!
After a lovely final meal together we extend our many thanks to the Guides and Porters and board the train back to Cusco at which point we pass out for most of the four plus hour journey.
At one of the stops, I manage to purchase beautiful little handmade presents for Austin and Jordan out the window of the train from a beautiful Peruvian woman.
All I remember after arriving in Cusco was...hot shower...food...bed...zzz...
Let´s start off with this lovely bit...
"I heard splashing on the boat
her bare feet
and sensed in our faces
the hungry dusk
my heart swaying between her
and the street, the road
I don´t know where I found the strength
to free myself from her eyes
to slip from her arms
she stayed, crying through rain and glass
clouded with grief and tears
she stayed, unable to cry
Wait! I will come
walking with you"
Sigh.
Errands day, and we are taking it easy. Laundry, packing our bags even lighter, preparation for our backpacking trek. I am so excited.
Ibar and I went to send a package home to the States. Such a make shift box. What I needed was a box about 12" x 12" x 4", what was provided was a box 24" x 12" x 18", nice and big so everything could flop around and break itself. I insisted on rebuilding a proper box and while it was being prepared (it took ages and ample amounts of tape), Ibar and I decided to amuse ourselves by drawing up a list of things to do...on my hand. The hand that holds all of the most important things to do...we were bored...
- bring passport on the Inca Trail Trek
- buy playing cards
- cash travelers checks
- buy stamps
- make incredibly complicated box
- send incredibly complicated box
...and because we wanted the instant gratification of checking off some of our items...
- bring our arms
- acquire University degree (I got to check this off twice!)
...simple amusements.
Dan´s not feeling especially well today - hopefully out of his system before tomorrow´s trek. We head off to a sports bar to get some lunch and to watch a footy match.
Afterwards the boys let me do some sketching for a while in the Plaza de Arms...boy am I a bit rusty!
We went to visit the Museo de Incas, which was filled with a huge collection of various relics. The building hosted a beautiful interior courtyard, with an intricate cobblestone paving design surrounded by an arcade. The columns of the building are stone carvings of mythical creatures and nude women.
Late we went in search of dinner and settled on an eclectic restaurant that served Thai food. The restaurant also had a huge pool table. My first Peruvian pool experience...I literally witnessed one of the balls coast slowly along the table, then turn abruptly at a 90 degree angle! Ibar and I play the longest game in the history of pool! No mad pool skills here.
After packing and repacking our back packs in the attempt to make them as light as possible we retire for the evening.
27 April 05
An early start to catch the bus that will take us off to begin our trek to Machu Picchu. You can no longer back pack the trail without a guide so we will be in a group of eight accompanied by three guides. The bus ride was about 3 1/2 hours. Once we arrived at our hiking start point, Kilometer 82, the Porters prepare us a huge meal for lunch and we begin our trek. Like everyone else, my pack has been slimmed down to about 12 kilos. but the additional weight was amazingly difficult to carry in these high elevations...I take continuous inventories of what else I might be able to get rid of but realize I need everything I have packed.
We hike until about 5:30 pm through breathtaking peaks and gorges. Flocks of parrots flying overhead, lizards darting through desert landscape and vegetation. It´s extremely hot and I am instantly soaked in sweat. One of the guides, Roger, is a Naturalist of sorts and, upon learning of my profession, proceeds to show me dozens of beautiful plants and to share their medicinal uses with me.
Beginning to see numerous Orchids and Bromeliads all over. Our tiny trail meanders through small villages selling soft drinks, snacks, and water to trekkers passing through. We are passed frequently by Peruvian women driving mules loaded up with supplies and large amounts of Chicha. These women must be in amazing shape.
When we arrived at the evening´s camp site, I immediately begin a long Yoga session for my absolutely knackered body. I fear how sore I will be tomorrow! Large camp dinner at 6:30pm followed by a long session of card playing for everyone, then off to bed, bunking with Dan....my bunk mate because I assured him that I don´t snore nor bite.
28 April 05
Nearly no sleep last night. Barking dingo of a beast dog lying just under the flap of our tent all night. No sleep but we weren´t eaten by a Puma...fair trade, I suppose! Up at five am to crowing roosters and Guides tapping on tents...apparently no one got any sleep, as it gets very cold in the evenings. Repacked our packs, ate a huge breakfast (toast and jam for me, pancakes and caramel, etc. for all else) and off we went for our second day of backpacking. I notice areas where bruises are sure to appear in a day or two, but feel very pleased that my muscles aren´t in tremendous pain and that I managed to not get too sun burnt.
Nearly our entire trek today was straight up hill, monster steps.Almost immediately my body and burning lungs felt the fatigue. Stunning views keep you going, I still can´t believe that I am here doing this, seems quite surreal... No one else would understand what I am feeling right now and I am finding myself so relieved that I am here with Dan and Ibar as they are there whenever I need to release the building steam that is my overwhelming happiness by way of huge hugs and kisses. I so appreciate being able to share this beauty and experience with others.
Todays trek was beyond difficult. Each moment of my hiking, my heart is beyond its target rate and pounding out of my chest, I am heaving for breath and my muscles tremble from absolute exhaustion...and here is the point where I toot my own horn because I am so fucking proud of myself...I am considered part of ´el groupo rapido´ which continues to make destinations before approximated times. Honestly I can´t believe that I am able to keep up with these gents.
The altitude increases and at points I am so hungry and exhausted that I am not certain that I will be able to make it to the top of the peak. It is all straight up and in the odd chance that you get a spot where it is relatively flat you cherish that step or two of rest before once again commencing your accent.
While feeling this way, wanting to be left alone, my Naturalist friend begins to profess his adoration for me, ´I love you´ came out, along with another battering of compliments and questions about my love life in Spanish. Why don´t I have the words in Spanish for ´Fek off´yet?
One mention of how uncomfortable this guy was making me and Dan and Ibar very sweetly won´t leave my side. I really adore them both with their kindness and endlessly ridiculous humor!
The Porters...I was told today that they make 20 soles each for a 4 day trek. That is the equivalent of about $7.00. I have never seen the likes of this in my life. They are young and very old with leg muscles that are huge. Their makeshift packs must weigh at least 60-70 pounds and they are basically running through the Andean Mountains, sweat streaming, racing to break down camp after we leave, pass us in our climb, and set up camp before we arrive. I feel really guilty at how unbelievably overworked and underpaid they are. So, we feed them our supplies of chocolates and decide to tip them generously at the end of our trip. They put our efforts to shame.
We are all constantly drinking tea and water with coca leaves in it. Provides us with added energy and relieves the negative effects of the altitude on our bodies.
When about 100 yards from todays peak, the gents of ´El groupo rapido´ started cheering and clapping for me (they were ahead of me). As soon as I got to the peak, I collapsed using my bag as a bed, but Ibar insisted that I get up immediately to look at the opposite side of the mountain, which turned out to be an ocean of clouds floating in rainforest. Absolutely stunning and I literally squealed with pleasure at the sight of it!
I did another Yoga session at the peak as we waited for the remaining trekkers to arrive. Another perfectly spiritual spot for Yoga. I can´t believe I made this peak!
The rest of todays hike was almost all down hill, very tough on the knees, into the cloud forest, past a tremendous waterfall - washing two incredibly sweaty, dirty days off in the coldest water I have ever experienced - instant headache!
We all had a huge lunch, I am absolutely starving all of the time, so much exhortion. Then we laid our exhausted bodies down for a much needed rest...reading, writing, dozing in the warm sunshine, and we get up again a few hours later for more Coca and a huge snack, followed by a huge dinner two hours later. Its growing dark now and the cloud cover is swallowing up everything, the air is cool and moist and good. Lush green and bright flowers, rushing sounds of water and lovely exotic scents...and my heart might just explode with all of the happiness it is holding.
29 April 05
Five am start again, up before Mr. Sunshine himself. Awake to ´Good Morning, I´m your alarm clock´ greetings and offerings of tea from the Porters. We repack our bags and head up to join our group for breakfast. Everyone eats omelets, they have made a special one for me out of vegetables, grain, water and oil...Semolina, is what I think they are calling it. Its ´interesting´ - one of those all encompassing words! Interesting, fine, unique, special...fills the void any ways.
Afterwards we set off on another days trek, up hill start but not nearly as steep as yesterday - yet my body is certainly beginning to complain strongly. Mostly my calves and my big toe reminding me that I abused it a couple of months ago very badly by fracturing it in seven places.
Orchids everywhere once we begin our decent, and getting larger and larger, and more and more lovely. Thinking of Mum and how much she would love the Flora here. Views of snow capped mountains and high cloud forests. Cliff hugging trails winding their way up, down and around the mountain sides.
I learned today that yesterdays killer assent is colourfully tagged as Warmi Wañusca, a.k.a. Dead woman´s pass....I almost became a statistic!
During todays hike we passed a couple of small swampy lakes. Our guide tells me how the first one is a magical place and no one can camp there anymore because people have been awakened numerous times to their legs being tugged towards the lake. Apparently its inhabited by mermaids and mermen...I wanted to give the Mermen bit a try!
We hiked on further to a beautiful overlook where we all stopped to feed our endless hunger again. I am an absolute health nut but when one of our fellow travelers broke out the Oreo cookies, I was all over it! I´m constantly famished!
The ruins of Sayacmarca were amazing and I got another opportunity to do some sketching as our Guides are taking it a bit easier on us today. We hike on through fertile smelling forests, stop for lunch, then on through amazing cloud forests, dripping lush vegetation, Inca tunnels, winding trails and stunning overlooks. We stop to rest at Phuyupatamarca, ´Town above the clouds´, the site has a series of beautiful ceremonial baths and a spectacular view of further ruins.
I had a much appreciated period of an hour or two where I got to hike in solitude which was amazing. My own pace, my own silence, my own observations...mmm...heaven.
Went to Huiñay Huayna, which translates as ´forever young´and camped at a very large camp site at the utmost edge of a cliff. We went immediately for an icy spring fed shower and then beer with our group. Again a monstrous snack hour with tea, we are all absolutely exhausted and need to get up at four am tomorrow to begin our trek to the Sun Gate, an entrance to Machu Picchu, in time for sunrise.
Dinner was enormous and extravagant, piles of fried yucca, papas rellanos, pasta, rice, meats, veggies, loads of beer and wine with dessert.
Tried to stay up past nine pm to dance some Salsa with two of the guides but had to collapse into my sleeping bag with mental and physical exhaustion instead.
Dan woke up in the early (earlier than 4am) morning. Sick from something he ate. I feel bad as there is nothing I can do to help him, so I hold his hand.
30 April 05
Dan´s much better, we are up before the sun. The Porters must have been up for two additional hours as I have been listening to them pack and prepare for the remainder of their trek.
After a quick breakfast, we race for Intipunku, the Sun Gate, with headlamps in the darkness, which proves rather difficult on the damp stone steps. Unfortunately, there is no visibility due to the thick cloud layer so we move on to Machu Picchu and wait for the clouds to lift. Very mysterious glimpses of the breathtakingly beautiful site through eerie, ghost like clouds drifting in and out of the Andies.
The surrounding mountains...I have never in my life seen anything more beautiful! Daddy, you would have had your socks knocked off, wait until you see my photos!...I have already taken about 800 in the short time that I have been here, so start cooking up the popcorn!
After a tour of Machu Picchu, exhausted and staving as usual, the group made a plan to meet at an appointed hour for a final meal in Aguas Calientes, the terminis of our trek.
Dan, Ibar, and I pushed on to our final accent (which nearly killed me, might I add?) to Huayna Picchu. This is the extremely well photographed, steep mountain at the back of the ruins of Machu Picchu.
The hike was absolutely worth the final push as it offered an outstanding view of everything around, Andies, Machu Picchu, etc. as well as several exhilarating and heart racing places to climb in, on, and around. Incan stairs, caves, cliffs, topped off with a treacherous descent along a vertical series of rounded, wet stairs that had no more than a two inch tread in many places. I am thankful that I am not too fearful of heights. Even at this high peak there is a local man working the agricultural terraces, planting and tending to the gardens. Amazing!
Tremendous sense of accomplishment relished at the final push up and down Huayna Picchu and at just having survived the Inca Trail trek. I am currently feeling as strong as an Ox!
After a lovely final meal together we extend our many thanks to the Guides and Porters and board the train back to Cusco at which point we pass out for most of the four plus hour journey.
At one of the stops, I manage to purchase beautiful little handmade presents for Austin and Jordan out the window of the train from a beautiful Peruvian woman.
All I remember after arriving in Cusco was...hot shower...food...bed...zzz...
posted by Rebel at 12:41 PM
3 Comments:
Mmmmm. Missing the sissies...Sending love your way beautiful!
love you rebs. wrap your arms tight around you and pretend it's a big hug from me. :) love hearing about your adventures. ;) xxooxxoo
burnt biscuits...if I find that sticker on Truckee....Truckee might just have to run over someone in 4wd!
emdot! Yeah, finally, welcome, welcome, welcome! Psssst! I get to see you in a four and a half weeks! Do you know of anyone in S.L.O. with a couch for one Rat Bastard?
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