Cusco

22 April 2005

Bus ride through miles and miles of cotton fields, vendors selling mountains of it on the roads side, smells of garbage, slaughter, burning plastics and exhaust. Cotton processing plants.

A twenty two hour bus undertaking down along the coastline of Peru, through Pisco then Nasca and then inland to Abancay and then onto Cusco where we will spend a few days acclimating to the massive change in altitude. From Lima´s sea level to the 19,000 feet Andean peaks! The highest peak I have ever climbed was a mere 13,500 feet!

Today´s strange observation: It´s funny how toilet paper is used for absolutely everything around here. You will never find it in a public restroom, you will rarely find it in a restaurant or bar toilet, but you will see it used for dozens of other things...as napkins mostly, but also for art projects and lampshades, etc.

Tonight the moon looks nearly full. I´m watching it, the children are watching it, you are watching it, yet we are all so far apart in distance, we are still sharing it all the same. My moon is casting it´s glow on desert land with no vegetation and the odd ecclecticly built particle board home. I wonder what yours looks like.

23 April 2005

Got into Cusco at about 10:30am, early. We went directly to the Hospedaje Santa Rosa De Lima - Los Hermanas Dominicanus, where we will be spending several nights acclimatizing to the change in elevation. We are currently at approximately 10,000 feet.

After my first hot shower in Peru, we went into the town center for lunch. We found a georgeous restaurant with a Peruvian style salad bar - loaded with chilis, hot salsas, fresh vegetables, olives, guacamole, and fresh rolls...needless to say this little rabbit was in heaven and grazed until her stomach hurt. I also tried a new beer, Cusqueña, labeled as a dark beer which turned out to be dark in colour and extremely sweet, I wouldn´t want more than one but it was tasty and strong.

We also had a huge pitcher of freshly squeezed lemonade, the juices here are lovely and thick with pulp...papaya, mango, lemon, orange, starfruit, pineapple...I feel so spoiled and guilty.
After a lovely lunch, we wandered around Cusco for a couple of hours exploring. Through artisan´s markets selling local art and handicrafts. Everything is so beautiful and full of colour.

After a bit of a rest, as there was no sleep to be had the night before, we planned for the rest of our trip here in the Cusco area and then headed out for a very late dinner. We stumbled into a lovely, tiny cobblestone street and were lured by the delicious sounds of Cuban music pouring out through a second floor window. The gents humored me even though they were absolutely knackered and went up with me to check it out.

We sat on soft cushions and listened to a three piece band, wooden box as percussion, guitar and vocalist, and a flutist that danced incessantly. We sat around comfortably sipping the local brew, enjoying the music and smoking a lovely and very smooth strawberry flavoured tobacco out of a Shisha, of which there were many. I´ve never tried one of these before and the first try sent me into a coughing fit. After a bit though, it tasted like warm strawberry sugar. Cool experience.

The music and the atmosphere filled me with energy and I was ready to stay up much later but the gents were exhausted so we went back for a proper rest.

24 April 2005

Great nights rest, we each have a private room - sin 15-20 small children running around! This morning we met with the travel agent that made the arrangements for the Inca Trail trek that I leave for on Wednesday. I had questions about possible programs for Manu National Reserve and for an Amazon trip. I would love to be able to do both, one or the other, but will probably be limited by money but more so time as I already miss the children, being away from them for only two days now.

I think about them constantly as we spend tourist dollars on sheer pleasure. The small amounts of money we spend would surely be so much better spent on them. I struggle with how to justify this constantly. I suppose this upcoming trek is as a fundraising event...

We had a quick and slight breakfast as we are determined not to be as decadent as we were yesterday with our mad gorging of food. I think of the lovely Leena, a coy, doe eyed girl that sits next to me at meal times back at the refuge. She is one of the children that I have absolutely fallen in love with and fantasize about stealing back to the U.S. She appears to have an absolute black hole of a belly though she is so very thin. I have seen her crunch the marrow out of bones, pick every last crumb of bread from her bowl, and wipe each drop of fluid from her plate with her little finger. Nothing is ever wasted or taken for granted.

In Leena, we have found a brilliant way to dispose of items that we are unsure about trying, can´t stomach one more time, etc. I love to share the extra little items that somehow mysteriously find their way to my plate (little gifts of fruit etc.) with her. Afterwards, we boarded an overly crowded bus to Pisca to wander through the Sunday market. Sunday is the big day for the Pisac market, the market place was filled with lovely fresh fruits and vegetables, Peruvian women in traditional dress of mid-shin length skirts, layers of sweaters, stockings, lovely hats topped with piles of fresh flowers and a large blanket wrapped around their shoulders either holding a small child or a baby llama. These women are bathed in the brightest of colours. Brightly coloured tapestries in every shape imaginable from blankets, bags, hats, sashes and purses.

Strangest site of the day? A miniature castle inhabited by guinea pigs. Stranger yet because under the guise of the name Cuy, they are eaten as a local delicacy.

We spent a few hours exploring the market place, making small purchases. Among other things, I bought a lovely chess set featuring the Incas versus the Spainiards and a bag of Coca leaves to try.

After having a beautiful lunch in the sunshine on the outskirts of the open air market, we began a trek up to Inca Pisac, a hilltop citadel. The trek was difficult due to the elevation and wasn´t for anyone that had any issues with heights as at many times we hiked along tiny, one person at a time paths with plunging gorges on either side.

This steep hillside is covered with agricultural terracing that form these sensuous curves and unbelievable steps down the steep Andean mountain sides. At the top of the terraces there was a ceremonial center with an intricate series of water channels, unbelievable detail, ceremonial baths, etc. There was also a mountain side across one of the gorges that hosted hundreds of holes, honey combs which were ancient Inca tombs.

We stopped along the way to sample our Coca leaves, which proved to be quite tasty. A bit of an energy boost and afterwards I am left with a bit of a headache and unsure of what exactly to attribute it to. Most likely acclimation to the altitude and dehydration.

We make it to the base of the mountain just before dark and scrambled to catch a bus back to Cusco. We snagged a very cramped and uncomfortable ride in a van for 2 soles a piece. I counted twenty-one people in that van including us, needless to say we were more than happy when the 45 minute journey was over.

After cleaning up a bit and getting a tiny rest, Dan and I went into the city in search of food as Ibar was feeling somewhat ill - probably the altitude. We found a great Lebanese restaurant and had a pile of falafel while I taught Dan how to play Backgammon. These 10pm dinners are going to be the death of me! Lovely late night walk back to the Hospedaje Santa Rosa de Lima. Remnants of the full moon reflecting on the cobblestone streets. I love Cusco, it´s a very romantic and beautiful old city.

25 April 2005

Late start today as we had to await the arrival of the travel agent and he didn´t appear until 10am. The poor guy´s sister passed away very tragically the morning before. This is when I get so angry with myself for my inability to speak the language. I am thankful that a big hug and kiss can translate into the words I would have otherwise chosen...perhaps they were more effective in the long run.

After meeting with him, we went into town to a local market in order to get fresh produce for lunch and then caught a bus out to the furthest of four ancient Incan ruins, Tambo Machay. Tambo Machay was a rather small archeological site that seemed to be a series of ceremonial baths. I am repeatedly taken with the intricate Incan drainage systems and can´t help to take numerous photographs as they are so beautifully chiseled into the stone.

We had our lunch in the sunshine at Tambo Machay. Fresh bread with avocado and tomato for me chased by a huge mango that I hoarded all to myself (my partners in crime foolishly declined). We took an alternate route to the next site, Puca Pucara, along a muddy little dirt road that meandered through a tiny village, many little pigs, sheep, llamas, horses, etc. tied to the road´s edge that I stopped repeatedly to pet and "converse" with. Including a large sow that let me scratch her enormous, dirty belly with happy little oinks and snorts...the sow, not me. Children running out to greet us as we passed by their homes.

Puca Pucara was cool, it had a large cave that I climbed into, must remember to carry my head lamp next time as it was very dark inside. My favorite part of this site was it´s commanding view over the entire valley. I practice some yoga on its most beautiful terrace.

We then hiked on to the Temple of the Moon, Salapunco. This site was my favorite of the day, as it was absolutely unvisited and had a deeply spiritual energy about it. Upon our approach it appeared to be simply a huge rock outcropping with a long series of stairs chiseled into its side. We sat on top and peered around at the surrounding ring of Andes mountains, then started down the back side and discovered another set of stairs, accompanied by another fantastic water system.

At the base of the Temple were several entrances into cave structures beneath the rock. The best of which opened up into a great cavern that had designs, alters, smaller rooms, and stairs all chiseled out by hand. Absolutely mind boggling.

Leaving the site I bought some hand wrought stone pieces, an egg shaped stone that came apart into two pieces, on the exterior of one was a carved image of the sun, on the other the moon. On the interior a man on one side and a woman on the other. They are absolutely stunning.

Again we chose to take an alternate route to the next site, Qenko, and walked through a beautiful Eucalyptus grove - simply Eucalyptus in perfect rows with a grass carpet. Magical and I expected to discover a gingerbread house along the way.

Qenku was a huge chunk of limestone that is riddled with various niches, steps, collection channels and symbolic carvings. I originally thought that all of these channel systems were for water collection but have since learned that they may have been used for the ritual sacrifice of Chicha or blood. There was a ceremonial alter at the top of the site and beneath there was another series of amazing tunnels to explore. A subterranean series of caves and alters.

The quickly declining amounts of daylight forced us to race to Sacsayhuaman, our final site for the day and one of the most spectacular in the area. Sacsayhuaman has both spiritual and military significance. It´s name means "satisfied falcon" but when pronounced properly sounds like "sexy woman"...the first time I was told about the sight, I thought the guy was getting fresh with me!

Sacsayhuaman has huge zig-zagged rock fortifications, one of the stones weighs an amazing 300 tons! The Incas envisioned Cusco in the shape of a Puma with Sacsayhuaman as the head. These zig-zagged walls form the teeth of the puma. There were incredible caves and caverns all over the site, the best of which we held hands through (me leading!), there wasn´t a drop of light inside and you had to feel your way through....absolutely amazing!

We stayed at Sacsayhuaman until it was absolutely dark then grabbed a collectivo back to the Plaza de Armas at which point we found the dingiest of all dingey boozers to date and went in to have a beer.

We quickly discovered that this dirty little cellar bar was locals only and we stuck out like sore thumbs. I thought that the place was filled with only Peruvian men and was a bit nervous as they all kept staring so much, until I noticed the sweetest little Peruvian woman in the far corner of the room. She immediately smiled and waved at me, I returned the greeting and felt much more comfortable.

The only seats that were available were a couple of stools that we pulled up to an empty wall. We quickly realized that we were sitting at the entrance a bathroom of some kind because of the stench and circling flies...and the constant influx of men.

After a moment or two the sweet little woman motioned for us to join them and they made room for us at their table...we gladly left our bathroom seats. Turns out this lovely woman was the mother of one of the men at the table, they were accompanied by seven other men. They all turned out to be a blast.

We went into the bar with the intention of having a beer, which was looked at very strangely as it was a Chicha bar. Chicha is a cloudy drink made from sweet maize and the locals drink it in huge jugs...I am not sure how they can drink so much of it. When they want another one they whistle loudly at the bartender who quickly comes over and fills their jug, revising the number of jugs the person has consumed in front of them with a chalk number.

Feeling strange about drinking beer and itching to try the local drink we ordered up a pitcher (with three tiny glasses...a bit embarrassing in the presence of the locals, but we weren´t sure about being able to polish of those gigantic jugs of the liquid!) for the three of us and one for our new friends.

I am still not sure what to compare the flavor of Chicha with...my best description is partially fermented wine, a tiny bit of pineapple flavor and a vanilla finish...an acquired taste and we definitley acquired a taste for it...lets just say that we stayed a whole lot longer than we had intended and that Rebecca ended up dancing with the sweet old gents and smootching them all on the cheeks before stumbling home with Dan and Ibar.

At one point I asked about where the woman´s room was and a huge bustling commotion took place, none of which I could really understand. The Peruvian woman went and spoke to the bartender, and immediately three or four people went to work in the "bathroom" that we had originally been sitting by, chasing out all of the men in there, out comes the bucket of water, loads of bleach, a mop, etc. etc.

The bathroom was cleaned for my use, which I was eternally grateful for as I can´t imagine what it must have look like prior. When I was given the go ahead to use it, the woman waited at the door to keep out the men, I walked in and my first thought (well after thinking that I definitley wasn´t going to touch anything) was where do you go? There was a trough of sorts about a meter long and a hole in the ground....that is about all I want to say about that.
My heart swelled when I was presented a gift, upon our exit, of a hand carved Incan god to protect and take care of me. I am now wearing it around my neck.